| Price : $200.00 | Post Date : Jan 01, 2012 01:00:35This high-performance tumbler is made of 100% recycled plastic in a heat-absorbing black color which helps compost "cook." It is easy to spin this compost bin on its sturdy base. Holds 7 cubic feet.
The Tumbleweed compost tumbler has a neat, compact design makes it an ideal compost bin for any level composter with any amount of garden space. By giving the Tumbleweed a spin every few days, it's easy to create fresh compost. The 100% UV protected, recycled plastic is a dark green color. When the sun hits the dark compost bin, it heats up the contents inside, speeding up the breakdown process. A stainless steel bar going through the compost bin breaks up any larger clumps that might form, further helping the breakdown process. The galvanized steel leg base makes this composting unit extremely sturdy, no matter how heavy the compost inside gets. These legs won't rust, so the composter will last many years out in the elements. With dual-end twist lock lids, it's easy to add or remove material no matter which end is up. The locking lids also prevent any small animal pests from getting into the bin. The lids are also vented, keeping the compost aerated while allowing any compost tea to drain out into the soil under the bin. The Tumbleweed compost tumbler holds up to 58 gallons of materials while continuously breaking down kitchen scraps, yard debris and other compostable materials into rich, organic compost that plants will love.
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Biodynamic gardening is a method of a garden being self-reliant upon itself. It's main dependent as any organic garden is a good organic soil structure full of living organisms. Biodynamic gardening is a way of living along with nature and relating to it.
Soil structure is one key factor in biodynamic gardening. The soil needs to be of a good soil structure with enough organic matter to support the life of earthworms and other organisms that will work and benefit the soil. Composting and manures both green and animal are a essential part of creating a good healthy soil structure.
Self sufficient with energy is another part of this method of gardening.There is no use of power equipment. Working the land is done by the means of animals and ones own labor. It is a more labor intensive way of gardening.
Crop rotation is necessary in this method of gardening. It will preserve and replenish the fertility of the soil. The soil from crops being planted like cabbage, cauliflower and corn that exhaust the nutrients from the soil need to be rotated with legume crops like peas, beans and clover to replenish the nutrients back into the soil.
The rotation of crops does more than just replenishing nutrients. The planting and rotating of crops that have deep root systems should be rotated with crops with shallow root systems to allow the soil to be worked naturally at different depths to improve the aeration and drainage of the soil along with it's structure.
Organic fertilizers are also important to biodynamic gardening. They can be in the form of liquid or organic matter applied to the soil or as foliage sprays. Compost and compost tea are two forms of organic fertilizers. There are no chemicals used in biodynamic gardening.
Insect control is done by natural means by keeping a good environment for beneficial insects and predators. The planting of flowers to attract bees, placement of rocks to shelter frogs and a water supply to attract birds are just a few things to do to create a attractive environment that will benefit your garden.
Biodynamic gardening is a type of gardening when arranged properly will allow plants to help each other grow. The planting of plants that will help shade the soil for cooler weather crops along with controlling weeds and plants that will supply nutrients back in the soil for the needs of other plants.
Biodynamic gardening is a practice of being self-sufficient with animals, companion planting, organic fertilizers, natural means of insect and disease control.
It is a fun, environment friendly and healthy way of gardening.
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Why spend money on expensive fertilizers when you can create your own composting and reduce landfill waste as well? With a Lifetime Composter you can easily reduce, reuse, and recycle kitchen and garden waste into a rich organic soil conditioner. Compost helps retain the moisture in your soil and adds rich nutrients for healthy plants. The Lifetime Composter is designed with black, double-walled panels to absorb and retain the heat that decomposes the material. An internal bar mixes the compost and allows the flow of oxygen that is necessary to break down the material into a rich, black organic fertilizer for your garden. The lightweight 75 gallon tumbler easily turns on its axis for balanced rotation—saving you the time and effort of turning a compost heap with a pitchfork! You’ll also appreciate the extra large removable lid for easy filling and dumping.
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Moon Phase Planting of Corn
Corn should be planted when the moon is in the 1st Quarter (i.e. waxing) and in one of the following Zodiac Signs: Cancer, Scorpio, Pisces
Preparing the Soil
Whether you're planting a few rows of corn in your garden, or an acre of corn to feed your animals and your family during the winter, you must remember that corn is a heavy feeder and will deplete your soil if planted in the same place year after year. Even in the home garden, it makes sense to plan a crop rotation with corn always following beans or preferably clover. A rotation for a small plot of land to feed livestock might allow clover to grow as long as possible before planting corn. Just before turning this green manure crop under, spread manure or compost on the plot. Twenty tons of manure per acre is good if you have it, but any amount will help. After tilling or plowing, plant your corn. In summer, before you are ready to harvest your corn crop, sow rye grass to plow under the next spring. Then plant soybeans or other garden beans; after harvest, plant winter wheat; plow it under and plant alfalfa in the spring. Allow the alfalfa to grow to hay the next year, and then begin the rotation again with corn.
Another rotation more adapted to the home garden would plant alfalfa for green manure, followed by sweet corn, the next year by tomatoes, then beans and peas, then spring vegetables seeded to wheat in the fall, then back to alfalfa and corn again.
When you follow one of the above rotations or plan one of your own using vegetables you are accustomed to growing, remember that corn also needs lime. Apply lime at the rate of 1,000 pounds per acre the year before you plant corn. Also spread phosphate rock at the rate of two tons per acre every four years. If your soil tests low in potash, use potash rock, greensand or an good fertilizer high in potash.
Planting Corn
Don't be in a big hurry to plant your corn, especially if you are planning a large crop. The proper time to plant, old people say, is when oak leaves are as big as squirrel's ears. You might want to wait a little longer, especially on a large plot, until the soil is about 62 °F. (16.670C.) about three inches down (use a soil thermometer). If you wait until the soil has warmed up, your corn gets off to a quick enough start; the warm soil hastens germination, and also cuts your chances of running into insect and weed problems brought on by rain and cold weather early in the year. If you plant more than a quarter-acre, it would be a good idea to have a corn planter of some kind. Hand-pushed mechanical planters are available, and planters that attach to garden tractors can also be purchased. If you have a small farm, you might want to look into getting an old, two-row corn planter from a neighboring farmer.
Plant field corn in 40-inch rows with plants spaced 15 inches apart. In the garden, plant your sweet corn more thickly, with six to eight inches between plants and 30 inches between rows, closer if you plan to cultivate the corn by hand. If you want to plant pole beans with your corn, allow three feet between stalks. This is a good combination since the beans use the cornstalks as poles and fix nitrogen for the corn. When the corn reaches six inches in height, plant a bean on each side of it about eight inches away. Plant popcorn and ornamental corn as you would sweet corn. Depth of planting depends on the time of year and moisture available. Early in the season, plant sweet corn at 1-1/2 inches and field corn at two inches. As the soil warms up and moisture decreases, plant a little deeper; late plantings of sweet corn should be made three to four inches deep.
To space sweet corn plantings for summer-long enjoyment, plant an early variety as soon as the soil warms up, a mid season variety five to ten days later and a late variety in another week. Weeds are a problem almost immediately after planting. Mulching right after planting will help to keep weeds down, but is really only practical on a small plot. Mulch between the rows, but mulch between plants only when they reach six to eight inches in height. If you are cultivating by hand, rake your plot about three days after planting to get weeds that might be germinating. On a larger plot, use a rotary hoe or spike-tooth harrow with the teeth set very shallow. When the corn gets high enough for you to see rows easily across the field or garden, begin cultivating with shovel cultivators or with a tiller Be careful not to bury the plants with clumps of dirt. As the corn grows higher, you can be less careful about cultivating since you won't have to worry so much about burying the plants. When the plants have reached knee height, you should have cultivated them three times. After this, stop cultivating since you won't want to destroy the spreading root systems of the corn.
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If you have been wondering how to make your own compost, it is not that difficult if you follow some basic rules. Composting provides some relatively easy methods for recycling your yard clippings into usable garden soil for your backyard or garden. As all organic matter eventually decomposes, composting merely speeds the process.
Decomposing organisms (bacteria, fungi, etc) need four basic elements to do their job: nitrogen (clover, fresh grass clippings, livestock manure), carbon (dried leaves and twigs), moisture (rain or your garden hose) and oxygen (you can aid this process by turning or mixing your compost).
Some more materials you can use to make your own compost are straw, woody brush, coffee grounds, vegetable and fruit scraps, sawdust and shredded paper. Do not use; meat scraps (they may attract animals), diseased plants or dog/cat manure (which can carry disease).
There are a few options when you make your own compost, all supply you with the same final result; humus or garden soil. Humus helps all kinds of plants grow and look better by providing vital nutrients to the soil. Below are 3 basic ways you can easily make your own compost.
1. Cold composting is a simple task and works well if you don't have a lot of yard waste, don't have the time to tend the compost at least every other day and are not in a hurry. Simply create a pile of your grass clippings and dry leaves on the ground. A barrier or wall can be used to keep the compost more together and chopping or shredding speeds up the process which can take many months to a year to complete with this method.
2. Hot composting requires more work, but will create humus in weeks instead of months. With this style the pile must be at least 3' x 3' x 3' to create efficient heating. It is also necessary to enclose your pile with a wall (wire mesh, bamboo). Choose a level, well-drained area. Make sure you include high-carbon and high-nitrogen materials and mix the two together. If you are low on nitrogen material, you can add a small amount of commercial fertilizer containing nitrogen. Roughly a 1/2 cup of fertilizer for every 10 inches of compost should do the trick.
You will need to keep the pile moist, but not soaked (when it is too wet the pile will start to smell bad). It is necessary to turn the pile when the internal temperature reaches 130-140 degrees Fahrenheit. Checking temperature can be done with a compost thermometer or by reaching into the pile to feel the heat, if it is uncomfortably hot, it is time to turn the pile.
To make your own compost in a month, you will need to turn the pile daily. Turning every other day will yield humus in 1 to 3 months. The finished product will smell sweet and be cool and crumbly to the touch.
3. Rotating barrels work on the same principles as hot composting, but offer several advantages. Compost tumblers are nice looking (not like an ugly pile of fermenting yard waste), pest resistant, easy to keep aerated (you simply flip the barrel to mix the ingredients) and they stay closed which helps keep them more insulated from weather conditions like excessive rain or heat.
Compost tumblers make the whole process more fun by eliminating the hard work involved in turning your compost pile and still deliver a finished product in the quickest time possible. This style of composting is the perfect solution for a busy lifestyle.
Once you make your own compost it can be used for all your planting needs. It works well in your garden as well as potted plants and improves the soil structure of any soil you add it to. Creating your own compost pile is a wonderful way to recycle at the same time improving your garden and all the plants in it.
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